It’s the Holiday Season!
September 11th is a somber day for Americans. It
is one of those days that when we think back on it, we will always know where
we were at the exact moment that we heard about the World Trade Center being
bombed. We remember small and inconsequential details of the moments
surrounding the news as it unfolded. It is a day that we hold on to tenderly.
Not tenderly the way that you might hold child or something that is dear to
your heart but tenderly as in the way that you caress a wound that has healed
but still gives you trouble now and again.
In Ethiopia September 11th is something entirely
different. September 11th is a day for celebration. It is the first
day of a new year! It is a day to spend with friends and family. The two weeks
leading up to New Years is intense. The city has feel about it that I can only
equate to Christmas in the States. Little bazars pop up in the most bizarre
places. They sell everything! Traditional clothing, kitchen-wares, housewares,
clothes, toys, baskets, you name it, its out on the street. The streets also begin to fill with sheep and
goats. Sheep and Goats are walked for miles and miles into Addis to be sold as
dinner. Chickens are also widely seen for sale throughout the city. It is
common to see people walking and carrying live chickens by their feet, one in
each hand, home to be turned into Doro Wot, a wonderfully tasty Ethiopian dish!
There is a type of wood that is ceremonially burned called
Chipbo in Amharic. It is burned to symbolically burn away the year’s misdeeds.
Piles and piles of this wood are sold all over Addis. The energy in the city is
palpable and even the farejis can’t help but feel a little excited. Not being
Ethiopian it is hard to know what to do with this excitement. It isn’t New
Years for us…. The way that we chose to spend the holiday was participating in
the US Embassy sponsored a 7k walk up Entoto Mountain. On top of Entoto
Mountain the Government of Ethiopia Erected a 9/11 monument. The walk (run for
people crazy enough for that sort of thing) began at the Embassy and concluded
at the monument where the Ambassador was to say a few words about 9/11.
We rose early on that Wednesday morning. We loaded the
stroller into the car and we packed water and some other necessities like
toilet paper (hey you never know). We left the house and began the drive to the
embassy. As we drove on the Ring Road, the only highway type road in Addis, we
dodged no less than 4 soccer games being played in the middle of the highway! You did
read that right. People were playing soccer in the highway. This is a big road
people! You can actually drive 50 miles per hour sometimes! Who decided that
playing a game of soccer was a good idea? It would be like playing a game of
soccer on I 10! Not EVER a good idea! But I digress. Outside of the four massive soccer games
being played in the middle of the highway there was nothing too strange about
the 30-minute drive to the embassy.
We arrived fairly early and checked in, got our t-shirts and
visited the restroom; the thought of using a bathroom anywhere along the way
was not something I wanted to dwell on! The hubs had Jake in the stroller and
when the walk began he took off. Brenden, James and I took it a little slower.
We chatted with some people and were generally enjoying ourselves. As we got
further up the hill we realized that all of the water was in the stroller! The
Hubs and Jake were nowhere in sight! We ran and searched and panted and
searched all to no avail. He had busted a move, left us in his dust, pulled a
fast one, whatever you want to call it we were on our own and we were thirsty!
We were told that there would be vans following us up the mountain for security
and to provide water to crazy people like ourselves who were with out water.
The trick was finding the van. We put the word out that we needed some liquid
refreshment and it wasn’t long before the van found us and we were given
several bottles of water. After taking a few deep swigs all of us felt more
willing to continue moving up the mountain.
In the USA when you hike a mountain you are usually on some
sort of trail that has a no motorized vehicles allowed rule. There are no
hiking trails here. You merely walk up the same road that everyone else walks
up, drives up and runs up, there is only one way up! On the way to the top we
passed Shirameda a market that sells lots of traditional dresses as well as
other crafty things. It was mostly closed for the holiday but it reminded me of
how much I really want to go shopping for some traditional Ethiopian clothes!
The people were surprisingly cool with the huge band of
ferenjis walking up the road and I don’t remember having one person ask me for
money. I’m pretty sure that is some sort of record! There were some little kids
that were cheering us on saying things like, “You can do it”. Very cute! There
were some places where the road is extremely narrow and the cars nearly ran us
off of the mountain. There were herds of goats and sheep that tried in earnest
to trample us. The worst and most challenging part of the hike was the exhaust
fumes coming out of the cars that passed us. The air is thin enough here but to
have all of that pollution as well made it really hard to breath. At one point
the kids and I stepped off of the road and walked down the hill and walked
below but along side the road the air felt a little cleaner and we could
breath. At one point there was an accident involving two taxi’s. The traffic
was horrendous and rather than subject my children to the horrors of enraged
motorists on a tiny mountain road we cut the switch back and walked up some
rocks and dirt and then back to the road.
Brenden was getting pretty tired and needed a lot of
motivation to keep going. I think that if I had let him he would have jumped
into the security van and ridden up with them. James was tired but if you
showed him how close to being last we were he hurried right along. We made it
to St Mary’s near the top. The boys thought that we were done but I had to give
them the unfortunate news that we still had about 30minutes left to walk! They
were pretty bummed out. After a while the ground pretty much leveled out and we
were not walking up anymore which was a huge relief! We continued on and
eventually met Jake and the Hubs at the finish. Apparently the Hubs made it to
the finish a full 30 minutes before we did! I have not idea how he did that
pushing huge old Jakey in the stroller! I realized as I was pulling my tired,
sore, trembling body to the finish that I was happy that the Hubs went on ahead
and left us in his dust. I was happy because if we had stayed together I would
inevitably have had to help to push that stroller up the mountain! I was barely
pushing myself toward the end!
After we made it to the top we hung around for a while and
stretched our sore muscles and waited for the Ambassador to arrive and give a
little speech. When he did arrive he said a few words. It was nice and it was
short. We piled into the 5 or so vans that had accompanied us up the mountain
and rode back to down to the Embassy where we enjoyed a lunch of Fantas and
Pizza. All in all it was a pretty successful hike. I was so tired when we made
it home that I slept no less than 2 hours and loved EVERY minute of it!
Until next time friends and family!!
Survival tips for hiking with the family!
1) Everyone carries their own water
2) Beware of motorists
3)Make the Hubs push the stroller from now on...that was great!
Me and the Boys making our way up the En Toto |
What's for dinner? |
The stick ladies |
A VERY tough job! |
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